Mad for Madison

Skylines often define cities. If you glimpse the Madison, Wisconsin, skyline, you might not even recognize it at first. At its center, a rounded dome towers over a downtown flanked by Lakes Monona and Mendota. The Wisconsin State Capitol Building is the emblem of this city, and its presence in the skyline is a nod to its prominence in Madison: ensuring its historic and visual importance, no building around it can be taller. To me, a former Madisonian, that iconic skyline encapsulates this city. 

For countless others, it’s the bar scene that stands out. Since Madison is a college town, there are a ton of excellent dives, classic cocktail lounges, and bars. Wisconsin is a hub for microbreweries — brewers here love experimenting with flavor. I know plenty of friends who would say Madison’s beer scene in particular is a step above the rest, and the city is home to many beloved breweries like Karben4 and Octopi, which is technically in nearby Waunakee. 

Yet, like my beloved Prague, this city can often be reduced to its affordable drinkability. It can be easy to see this hopping beer and bar scene without seeing the bigger picture. Don’t get me wrong: I savor those non-Chicago cocktail prices. Still, there is an indescribable magic to this isthmus city, and the more I travel and the more travelers I meet, the more I realize how undervalued the Midwest is.

That’s especially true for its smaller cities like Madison — it’s not always at the top of people's minds when they think of Midwestern metropolises. It isn’t bustling like Detroit or sprawling like Chicago because Madison doesn’t have to be.

Where some cities derive their fame from skyscrapers and industry, Madison is known for its character. You know those cities that embody small-town charm? Combine Midwestern friendliness in a town with progressive political ideals and that’s Madison — a spot where many, many people feel welcome. What could be better?

Williamson Street — Willy Street to locals, as no one calls it by its actual name — is my favorite example of Madisonian chic. Long known for its eclectic style and deep-rooted community feel, there’s a saying for this neighborhood: Keep Willy Street Weird. From shopping Willy Street Co-Op to gallery and music nights at Mother Fool’s Coffeehouse, this small-town charm is a part of what makes Madison special. 

Returning to Madison is like getting a hug from your long-distance best friend. For everything that’s changed since I moved away in 2018, much has stayed the same. 

At the center of that sameness, and practically the city itself, is the State Capitol. A monumental X-shaped building surrounded by trees and lawns, it watches over much of Downtown. Its halls are a welcoming place for visitors of all ages — free tours are offered daily — and I’ve remained mesmerized by the Capitol ever since my first visit during a childhood field trip. I’ll find myself just sitting in the rotunda, admiring the murals and the building’s Renaissance Revival architecture. During Christmastime, a giant tree covered in ornaments made by Wisconsin school children anchors the rotunda and makes this public space feel especially magical. 

While the Capitol is the center of so much activity — including the country’s largest producer-only farmers’ market — the city's crown jewel is the Overture Center for the Arts.

Just a few blocks away from the Capitol, down the largely pedestrian State Street, is the Overture Center, where I spent countless hours when I lived in Madison. The Overture Center is the city’s touring Broadway house, and is home to nine resident companies including Forward Theater Company and Madison Opera. In my previous life, I worked for their program publisher — the now-defunct Footlights Magazine — and Overture felt like my second home along with the surrounding storefronts on State Street.

Shopping on State Street as a teenager felt like a rite of passage. Restaurants and shops line the blocks between Capitol Square and the University of Wisconsin-Madison campus. Many, many of those shops and eateries have changed through the years. Just a week after this newsletter is published, my all-time favorite breakfast spot, Short Stack Eatery, will close its doors for good. While I won’t be able to sink my teeth into their housemade, perfectly crispy breakfast potatoes with a side of sour cream and a dash of hot sauce again, at least I can drown my sorrows with some retail therapy at Little Luxuries just a few storefronts over. I could easily spend a day just eating my way down State Street. 

Growing accustomed to a place and its quirks leads to developing a taste for home. Luckily, as a college town, Madison has no shortage of eats and treats. Need some comfort food? A cozy pub like Great Dane Pub & Brewing Co. is your answer. What about some Asian fusion? Bandung Indonesian Restaurant has absolutely the best beef satay in the country. I can’t visit Madison without at least one heaping dish of Russian dumplings at Paul's Pel'meni — I swear the savory pelmeni coated in curry, chili sauce, and dappled with sour cream will change your life. You’d be remiss not to grab a slice of mac and cheese pizza at Ian’s Pizza. It’s beloved for good reason, plus they’re open late, especially on weekends. 

No trip to Madison — or Wisconsin for that matter — is complete without a healthy dose of cheese curds. You can find them all from squeaky fresh cheese curds to deep-fried beauties. Every restaurant that serves fried curds will do them their own way, though I have yet to find anyone who does it better than The Old Fashioned Tavern & Restaurant. The crispy batter is flavorful without taking away from the indulgent cheese hiding inside. No judgment if you can’t share them. Sometimes that is simply the whey to go. 

It’s easy to work up an appetite here. With recreation on Lake Mendota and Lake Monona and miles upon miles of paths to walk or bike, Madison’s outdoors and natural spaces are a treasure trove for locals and visitors alike. Explore the University of Wisconsin–Madison Arboretum, or my personal favorite, the Olbrich Botanical Gardens. In the dead of a bitter Wisconsin winter, the conservatory filled to bursting with tropical plants is a balm for a world-weary soul, but it’s the warmer months when Olbrich really shines. With 16 acres of outdoor gardens, Olbrich has something you’d never imagine being here: a golden Thai pavilion. The pavilion was a gift to UW-Madison from the Thai Government and the Thai Chapter of the Wisconsin Alumni Association, and it is a marvel to behold. Glimmering in the summer sun, it is an ideal spot for taking in a well-deserved restful moment in nature. 

A long weekend is perfect for a glimpse into Madison's beauty, but I could easily spend weeks visiting this city and not see every place I love. Part of what makes Madison so undeniably charming is its nonchalance. A bunch of travel guides aren’t necessary to get the most out of your time here. You won’t need a full itinerary, and contrary to what the politics of a state capital may lead you to believe, Madison is a laid-back city. Look forward to lakeside living, but with double the lakes — and double the relaxation.

Double the expectations? I assure you, this city will surpass them. 

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